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Mechanical Tips 
Here are some interesting and extremely helpful tips for Austin A40 Devon owners.
The idea grew with help from Alex from Australia, a knowledgeable A40 expert. He has a friend named Ray, an Old Timer who knows the Austin A40 Devon inside out! It is this friend who has kindly passed on many of the tips which Alex has forward to me so I could post it here. Thanks Ray and Alex, and to all the other friends of the faithful Austin Devon. We await more tips with interest. If any of you out there have a tip you wish others to know, just email it to me and I'll add it to this page as soon as I can. Each tip is personally credited. Thank-you very much.
Also, of interest to my readers (viewers!) Alex from Australia has come up with a great idea for us all. Why not make a spotters page/s? There is heaps of room here, so why not? Send me a photo of an A40 Devon - any kind, age or era, and a little story about it, just so long as it's a A40 Devon - and I'll do my very best to see that it appears on a "Spotters Page". I need a couple of photos to start with, so send them in............ Submit Photos for Spotters Page
How to find TDC on No. 1 - Barrie, Victoria, Australia, EMAIL
Hello, I used to work at Longbridge starting in 1948 in the rectification dept.
The way we used to find tdc on No1 was to put a 2thou feeler in No7 valve, turning the engine until it was just gripping the feeler and that was just right for No 1 firing.
I slipped up when on holiday in Auss, I found a Devon that was used every day in just about perfect condition only the usual front shockers weak and two bars in the rad cowl broken It was for sale but having no room to park it, I had to turn my back on it. The original tool kit was still in the box in the boot!
Have you ever heard of the Mark 2 Devon there was only a few built with no chrome and a bench front seat? It was late 48 early 49 if my memory serves me right. It was a attempt at a cheaper version which didn't sell. Would you happen to know anyone who owns a Straker Squire vehicle. One of my pals back in England is the great grandson of Straker and is always interested in finding any of these cars or lorry's. He has been told that most of the production was sent down to this part of the world.
All the best to you, Barrie. If any of you can help Barrie with his request please email him, and you may care to send me something so I can post it here - as a reply. Thank-you.
Holden Universal Joints for A40's - Alex, Australia, EMAIL
A tip I was told a few years ago was Holden universal joints fit A40s as a cheap replacement part.
Gearbox Third Motion Shaft - Alex, Australia, EMAIL
In the gearbox, the third motion shaft will blue up (get hot) in warm driving conditions and the bronze bush maybe damaged, ie split in half, thus binding on the shaft and locking the box. To fix the problem, ream a new bush .oo2 inch. Also a bush from an early MG box (3 piece) should fit.
Stainless Steel Sleeves on Brake Cylinders - Alan Peacock, New Zealand, EMAIL
I got stainless steel sleeves put in the front brake cylinders of my 1951 A40 Devon. The brakes are excellent now, and the testing station insisted on retesting them because they gave such a high reading.
I think it is the big wheels and large diameter drums that had the effect.
Don't throw anything away!!!!
Tips for A40's in cold weather - Alex, Australia, EMAIL
Care whilst reversing: When reversing please bring the car to a complete stop before moving off in first gear or you may break an axle near the centre carrier of the diff as the spline was hardened but not the axle.
How to test your distributor: When tuning an A40, your distributor, when moving the rpm up/down should be moving back/forwards with the vac advance from engine. Also the weights (under the points) have springs that retard the weights as rpm increases. A test to see if all is ok, is to twist to points cam then release it to see if it springs back to home position. If not, the replacement springs will need to be used.
Check your Timing Chain: The timing chain should be looked at as well, inside the top time gear is a rubber tensioner ring that holds chain at the correct tension, If worn, your chain will rattle.
Problems with the water pump: Inside the pump holding the carbon bush/seal is a rubber cup which hold all of the carbon seal, spring cup assembly on the shaft. Over time this rubber cup breaks down thus another leak from your pump. As a temp fix repair rubber cup with silicon. Mine has being fixed for about 8 years, and touchwood it will be ok for anther 8 years.
Broken Crankshaft Experience: My worst mechanical failure was a broken crankshaft between No.4 and rear main bearing. Clean in half. I think the shaft may have been damaged/dropped at last rebuild by another owner, as when I first got her running the engine had a noise inside that I couldn't pick until it let go one day when I was out for a drive. Luck was with us that day as the shaft broke at low rpm, so no damage to block. Just bearing damage mainly.
Parts web site located: Found a good site for parts, www.jedmotors.com.au head gaskets for $25 au dollars + post.
A fix for a leaking oil seal in rear wheel: Another tip from Ray in the rear axle behind the hub of the rear wheel is an oil seal that leaks diff oil in the brakes. All Austin axles up to the 60`s are similar in size, so a modern 60s oil seal will fit your A40`s hub, say Austin Freeway for example. Same as the bottom seal in the steering column. The old cotton seal can be replaced with a more modern seal, but mine was already done so I don't have the origin of that part yet.
Window screen fitment: The early front windscreens had larger frames and needed to be spaced away from the body approx 1/4 of an inch or the old type rubber wouldn't seal correctly and you would get wet when it rained. When rebuilding your engine remove the Welch plugs and you will see a lot of material in the water jacket that should be removed, I use a wire coat hanger
Air Cleaner fix: The oil in the Air Cleaner can be drawn into the engine and then out the exhaust as blue smoke when rpm is up. I replaced the oil/mesh with a paper filter (slight mod to air box) and no smoke from exhaust, so the police will leave you alone on that one. If you have a lot of smoke you may have to re-ring or service the valve guide/rubber seal inside the valve spring cups.
Grease Removal - Thanks to Brent Tamatea, New Zealand Spray steel parts with Oven Cleaner... leave for a few hours then hose off with a high pressure hose. Don't use on brass or alloy's. I have tried it and know it works fine. A plus point is that it's cheap to buy!!!

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Last Updated - Wednesday, 19 March, 2008
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